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Thursday 29 January 2015

Lake District Wild Camp 21-22/1/15

After setting off at silly o' clock I arrived in Nether Wasdale just after 7am to a slightly overcast sky with the wind hustling the clouds along at a decent pace.
I clicked my head torch on and set off along the road in the direction of Wastwater.
Instead of going straight into the ascent I decided to take a quick stroll around Low Wood at the end of Wastwater for some photo's.


The occasional Squirrel made for higher ground as I passed through their quiet surroundings.

Looking over Wastwater towards Yewbarrow.
After taking a few shots I packed my camera gear away and set off back through the woods.



I stopped to collect some water from the River Irt (Wastwater's outflow) as I wasn't sure if I'd pass any sources on my climb up to Whin Rigg.
I headed Southeast to the path that ran beside Greathall Gill.



The going was quite steep and the ground was quite solid, luckily not too icy so it provided secure footing.


As I got onto the main path I stopped for a quick brew, the initial climb had been thirsty work!
The only interruption was the occasional bang from the Eskmeals range.
I hadn't seen a single person yet, but I expected that would soon change as I headed along the ridge.

Cairn leading to Whin Rigg.
The ascent relaxed a little as I made my way to the Summit of Whin Rigg with occasional bursts of sunshine lighting up the tops of distant fells.

View down the Great Gully.
After a quick tap of the Whin Rigg summit cairn I set off across the top towards Illgill Head, the path had very little elevation change so would be a fairly easy stroll.
The snow was ankle deep in places and there was a nice fresh breeze blowing.

Looking towards Illgill Head.
After a quick detour to photograph a frozen pool I continued on my way with a slight uphill gradient ahead of me.


Looking back to Whin Rigg.
Some of the biggies at the far end of Wastwater loomed into view as I neared the end of Illgill Head.

Yewbarrow, Kirk Fell, Great Gable and Lingmell.
It was 2pm and I'd walked for about 6 hours (and the surrounding views were cracking) so I decided a lunch stop was needed.
The sun made a brief appearance as I was tucking into my ravioli in tomato sauce!

Lunch stop with superb views.
I set off to make my descent, my aim being to camp somewhere near Burnmoor Tarn.
A party of 6 or 7 people far below were making there way towards Burnmoor Tarn, I hoped they weren't intending to stay the night.

Sca Fell.
Once I got beyond the snowy end of Illgill Head the route down to Burnmoor Tarn was very boggy and the tussocky grass made progress very slow.
As I got nearer it became apparent that I couldn't pitch anywhere near here.
I filled up my reservoir at a fast flowing stream and headed Northeast and after a tiring 2km search I finally found a raised area well away from the main path that was ideal for my nights stop.

Burnmoor Tarn with Burnmoor Lodge directly behind.
Force 10 Ion 2 with Burnmoor Tarn in the background.
After a few shots of my tranquil surroundings I headed indoors for a coffee and evening meal.

The view out to Yewbarrow.
The nice dusky light provided one last photo opportunity before I headed indoors to bed, it had been a long day and I slept soundly.


I awoke to a much brighter day with frequent sunny outbursts, for some reason it took ages to break camp.

Morning sunlight on Illgill Head.
I headed directly for Sca Fell, the path had a gentle initial gradient and conditions were ideal.


Sca Fell.

Ice cold and super fresh!
I could hear a stream burbling below so I began chipping away at the ice to get to the flowing fresh water, it was worth the effort and I took a few gulps before continuing on my way.

Illgill Head from my ascent of Sca Fell.
The ascent was extremely gentle and I slowly rose above some of the lower peaks that surrounded me.


As I got ever closer to the top, the ground became much steeper and very rocky, the ice axe had begun earning its keep!

Getting close to the summit of Sca Fell.
I got to within 100 metres (vertically) of the summit but due to worsening conditions and limited routes down and I decided to turn back.

Low cloud closing in while descending Sca Fell.
As I retraced my steps I had to think of another place to stop overnight as my other one was on the descent of Sca Fell.
The sun and clouds were creating a special scene in front on me and I picked up the pace.


Fantastic lighting effect behind Burnmoor Tarn.

My initial plan was to pitch up somewhere near the end of Illgill Head but the ground yet again proved to be too waterlogged and in fairly close proximity to the path.


I descended further with my only remaining option being to pitch on the shore of Wastwater (or somewhere close nearby).
The orange sky hinted at a missed sunset opportunity and I plodded on.


As I walked by the rocky shore of Wastwater I noticed some litter had been washed up, after some cursing I picked it up, only to notice it was full and still sealed!

Kirk Fell and Great Gable over Wastwater.
As I continued my stroll on the shoreline the map showed one spot left to pitch before the grassy areas disappeared altogether.


As I rounded the corner of my last opportunity to pitch, the sun was setting beautifully over Wastwater (I should have checked my watch before writing it off earlier!).
I couldn't believe my luck! I slung the pack off and began shooting and switching lenses like my life depended on it!


After my sunset photo binge it was time to tackle the pitching of the tent.
It wasn't easy as I had minimal space, the ground was strewn with half buried rocks, the pegs would only insert 1/4 of the way and it was on a bit of a slope.

Ion 2 pitched on very rough ground.
It was far from a perfect pitch but it would do for the night.
The sky was overcast and I headed indoors for an evening meal with some Skittles for afters!

My litter picking reward!
Despite two hours trying to nod off, I was still awake and peered out of the tent to see if conditions had improved, to my surprise they had and I quickly got dressed and grabbed my gear.
Cloud was patchy and stars twinkled through the gaps, I was out there for a good 45 minutes before retreating back inside the tent.

Wastwater in darkness.

I slept well and woke early to the pattering of light rain on the flysheet.
The weather had closed in as forecast and I made my way Southwest along the Wastwater shoreline.


Even though I only had 3km to cover, the journey was soul destroying.
The slippery rocks and giant boulders meant safe progress had to be made at a snail's pace, Yewbarrow and Middle Fell seemed to take a lifetime to pass on the opposite shore.


As I neared the end of the shore, the rain started and soon enough a torrent was soon falling from up above.


My waterproofs were cinched up and I happily left the sapping scree behind as I made my way slowly towards Easthwaite.
The last couple of kilometres were a struggle and I finally began to home in on The Strands Inn.
After a quick change I headed inside to dry off in front of the log fire and for some much needed hot food and refreshment!
Hopefully my next trip won't be so long away as I've got a lot of things on my to-do list :)

5 comments:

  1. A very atmospheric account as always Lee. Beautiful photos ending in that stunning sunset and starry skies over Wastwater :-)

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  2. Gorgeous pictures and trip report. Whenever I see the beauty of the Lake district in winter I often ask myself why I shouldnt plan my 10 day hike (october 2015) in similiar conditions. But then I depend so much on the weather and as I live in Belgium it's difficult to plan it last minute.
    Looking forward to your next adventure.

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  3. Thanks David, I appreciate the kind words.
    October might be a little earlier for similar conditions, Twitter is good source for the latest on weather.

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  4. I've always though Burnmoor Tarn would be a good spot for a camp, but maybe I've been there when it's been much drier! Lovely photos. Chrissie

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    1. Hard to find a spot that isn't boggy but worth it when you do. Cheers Chrissie :-)

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